Display/Diorama base tips and caveats

[Dr.Evil]

It's a slate coaster i use for the Giant, i covered it with a layer of plaster as i didn't fancy trying to drill the slate.
Are you painting them separate from the base or attached.

Attach the figure, now add enough plaster to bring it to the same level as the stand and you can mould it to blend in with the base.
You can carve it easy enough when dryed.

I did this also with the Armoured Skullmasher but i used glass tile's on it and gave up trying to drill them and just stuck the figure on.

[Keeper]

This is pretty much the same as what I did with the base on the ranger I posted recently, except that I glued his integral base to an old 25mm slotta base, and I used coving adhesive (pretty much like filler or plaster, but lighter).  OK, not a diaorma, but the principle is the same. This first  photo shows how the integral base blends into the plastic base, using the filler.

Filled base:

Then I just finished it off in the same manner that I would a regular base.

Finished base:

[Custom_Hobby]

Less work than hacking off the integrated base

[cheddarmonger]

I can't stand those broccoli bases.  Yes, putting them onto a base and filling them up is a good alternative, but doesn't always work.  Even better with those warmachine-type display bases, but it depends on just how deep the sculptor does the feet, and other issues.

[Bungle]

Thanks for the tips.

bases are a real problem.. I know lots of people that hate slotta bases because they are too tall when gaming.

figures without bases don't give a large surface area for glueing on just the feet if you don't use slotta bases. Which means fragile minis when gaming.

so the thinnest possible flat bases that will fit on top of slottas is an alternative to keep gamers that like both sorts of bases happy.  But that is bad for painters.  :icon_sad:

[gi6ers]

For minis with the tab on the bottom just snip away the middle bit and using a file or sharp knife make the bits that are left into pins and you are sorted. If you use pre-cast resin bases (Antenocentini's are great and cheap!) and just drill 1 or 2 holes they won't shift.

[Dr.Evil]

Today's tip. :icon_wink:

If you figure is too tall them use a 1 or 2p as the base or what every you currancy is, it's shorter than a base but about the same size.
It also give's weight to help keep the figure from falling over too.

[Bungle]

Another tip

if you use magnetic basing to hold your figures while transporting.. base your figures on 1992 or later copper 1p or 2p coins.

the formula was changed and they contain more iron so stick to magabase.

Thats what i normally do for basing... can't drill holes to pop pegged figures into though.