Village Blacksmith step by step

[Bodhi]

Stunning just stunning!
Also the step by step you're making really make my fingers itch. I think you'll be getting quite a few "scenery converts" through this  :icon_wink:

[Theomar Pius]

Stunning just stunning!
Also the step by step you're making really make my fingers itch. I think you'll be getting quite a few "scenery converts" through this  :icon_wink:

Hopefully.
I've so far spent tops, $8.00 on this piece. Thats 3 for the foam board (which is actuall zero, I used scrud*s.)
$2 on balsa.
$2 on styrene (which was really about $.02 since I got a deal.
All of the blue foam and bits are scrud*s.
The only tools I've used are an x-acto knife, a pencil, and a ruler.

All this really takes is a lot of patience.
I don't have it to sculpt figures, but for this stuff I have it in spades.

[Bodhi]

For one sculpture I spend... less than fifty cents in material costs. It's when you start getting paid and then start figuring hourly wages for work input that you get kind of depressed  :icon_wink:

[Theomar Pius]

But if you compare spending $10 on a terrain piece you make, vs $25 - $75 for a similar sized piece from a GW kit, it becomes a no brainer.

[Custom_Hobby]

It is a hard issue to balance when making terrain for a customer though. We usually discount out per hour charges based on the model and if it is a repeat customer.

[Bodhi]

But if you compare spending $10 on a terrain piece you make, vs $25 - $75 for a similar sized piece from a GW kit, it becomes a no brainer.

Yeah, well what I was trying to say was really that it's not the cost saved that is the prime motivator but the simple fact that it's loads more FUN to do it your self.

[Theomar Pius]

But if you compare spending $10 on a terrain piece you make, vs $25 - $75 for a similar sized piece from a GW kit, it becomes a no brainer.

Yeah, well what I was trying to say was really that it's not the cost saved that is the prime motivator but the simple fact that it's loads more FUN to do it your self.

well yeah, that too.

[Theomar Pius]

Finished framing in the windows and the rest of the wood work.
I also added a window on the downstairs back.

[dargrin]

I noticed on the bottom picture the window seems to be leaning forward. Was that done intensionally or is it a trick of the camera?

[Theomar Pius]

I noticed on the bottom picture the window seems to be leaning forward. Was that done intensionally or is it a trick of the camera?

They are in fact leaning forward. Such a small building, it's hard to put interesting features on it. It was also a last minute decision, as the wall was verticle when I put the original foamwork together. I added the pieces to make it lean after.

[Theomar Pius]

A couple of updates, and construction is pretty much done!

#1 pic: I covered all of he foam with Woodland Scenics water effects. In the past, I've used clay, and spackle, but water effects makes it much easier, cleaner, and faster. It does two things, creates a stipple look and adds texture, plus it hides any defects in the foam, like seams and a nice blemish where the paper ripped.
#2: A basecote on the pavilion, of raw umber. I wanted to do this before building the roof because it would give me easier access to everything.
#3: a drybrush cote of dove grey to add age to the wood, and the roof is completed as well.

Next up, paint.  :icon_cool:

[Theomar Pius]

Got a bit more of the painting done.

#1 all of the foamboard area is covered in a base cote of folk art honeycomb.
#2 is a drybrush of folk art tapioca.
#3 all of the woodwork area is a cote of folk art raw umber.
#4 the woodwork gets a drybrush highlite of folk art dove gray.

[Theomar Pius]

Still more painting.
I had a bit of trouble with the color. I originally wanted to paint the roof red, but since the brick on the forge will be red, I decided to go a different way. I couldn't do brown, because so much of the pavilion is wood. I made up a greenish grey, but it was a bit too green. So I had to repaint the roof in a darkish blue/ grey. I'm pretty happy with this color choice. The drybrushing is done with GW rotting flesh, which is pretty much my workhorse color, a highlight with a hint of green.

[Theomar Pius]

Even more painting. and stuff.
The are the doors that I cut out in the construction. I draw the wood pattern, by pressing hard on the pencil. I scribe in the grain with a knife, then paint. The metal work is styrene and pin heads.



The forge is painted in a few steps, first a basecote of dove grey, then a cote of burgundy, and drybrush cotes of tanned flesh, rotting flesh, and smudged black for soot.

The top of the roof is painted in bronze, then brass, and a mix of camo green and ice blue. Finally, the weathering is done with smudged black by fingertip.
The colors are a bit more subdued than what you see in te picture, mostly due to the flash.

[Theomar Pius]

The shop will be placed on the street in the town, so here is laying down the road.

The road itself is from christmas village, it comes in a big roll of 18x30 inches for about $12, but is rather plain in color.
I painted the entire cut piece in a dark grey, then the individual stones in several different shades of grey and greyish brown. Finally a drybrush cote of rotting flesh.

As for the middle pic? It's just a few pieces of balsa glued down before gluing the road on, just to give some change in grade.